Posted by Edelweiss Patterns on August 23, 2011
Butterick Patterns Releases a Princess Catherine Wedding Dress Pattern!
Copyright Butterick Patterns, 2011.
Ever since the royal wedding festivities in April, I have been waiting to see one of the “Big Four” pattern companies release a “royal wedding dress pattern” for Princess Catherine’s bridal gown. And at last one of them has! Butterick Patterns has just released their latest wedding dress design, BP249 which is very close to the original Sarah Burton design and makes a wonderful replica of Kate Middleton’s wedding dress! This bridal gown pattern is clearly a “knock-off” of Princess Catherine’s wedding gown, though there are some obvious differences in the back which make it easier to sew. A few months ago I studied how one could combine separate patterns to achieve the Princess Catherine look, and while you may still want to read to study all the design details, this pattern will greatly simplify the process!
Pattern covers are copyright Butterick Patterns, 2011.
The royal wedding has so inspired future brides that Butterick Patterns has released not one, but three dress patterns inspired by William and Catherine’s wedding! Besides the royal wedding dress pattern, Butterick has also produced a drapey bias-cut dress pattern (BP250) which is nearly identical to Pippa Middleton’s royal bridesmaid dress pattern (minus the elegant row of buttons down the back closure). Butterick Patterns used the same model for both patterns, who looks very similar to the royal Middleton sisters.
Pattern cover is copyright Butterick Patterns, 2011.
The attention to detail that Butterick showed for their photo shoots is impressive. For Princess Catherine’s wedding dress pattern, we see a lovely brunette with the same half-up/half-down hairstyle topped with a replica of the Cartier’ halo tiara and a lace trimmed single layer veil. At her ears hang diamond earrings which are reminiscent of the acorn earrings which Mr. & Mrs. Middleton commissioned for their daughter Catherine as a wedding gift. The bridal bouquet she holds has the same simplicity of the original royal bouquet, and we see an enormous sapphire ring (replica of Kate Middleton’s engagement ring) on hands that sport a thin coating of light pink nail polish over short fingernails. At first glance I actually thought it was Princess Catherine on the front pattern cover!
Pattern copyright by Butterick Patterns, 2011.
The third royal wedding dress pattern is for the flower girls. Once again the child model they used bears a striking resemblance to one of the royal wedding participants, and while the dress is a simple, classic style, I’m sure brides-to-be will favor this pattern for Kate Middleton-inspired weddings!
Pattern cover image is copyright by Butterick Patterns, 2011.
As far as the Princess Catherine’s wedding dress pattern is designed, the front is nearly identical, with the same high-necked lace overlay/bolero, sweetheart neckline, and wide pleated skirt. The Chantilly lace slopes from the high neckline down to the center of the sweetheart curve just as the Sarah Burton gown did, and the sleeves are just as fitted and end in a slight “v” at the wrists. (For more photos of the original royal wedding dress on display, click here.)
The back of this Butterick wedding dress is different than the original royal wedding dress, and while it is still quite lovely, I might not recognize it for exactly the same bridal gown.
At center & right is the original Sarah Burton dress, on the left is the Butterick Patterns version.
- The original dress had wide pleating down the skirt back; the Butterick Pattern 249 has only one small pleat at the back waist.
- Kate Middleton’s royal wedding gown had an ostentatious train which was approximately 7 feet long, while the Butterick gown pattern has probably no more than a 3 foot train.
- One of the most notable design elements for the Sarah Burton designed dress was the floucy “bustle” at the back waist of Princess Catherine’s gown. The newly-released wedding dress pattern doesn’t quite have the same effect, as the separate bustle pieces sewn at the back waist seam lends an more angular, almost triangular feel to the back.
- Lastly (and this is not a big difference at all), Princess Catherine’s wedding dress had a slight downward curve to the strapless back. This Butterick pattern has a completely straight strapless back, which is not quite as slenderizing as the original royal wedding gown.
But that being said, many bridal seamstresses may not make an exact replica of the royal wedding dress anyhow, and unless a bride-to-be was very picky (which they often are!), she probably wouldn’t notice much of a difference between the two wedding dress designs at all. Butterick has done an excellent job reproducing the royal family’s wedding dresses in such a short amount of time, and I’m sure they will be the most popular wedding dress patterns for the next couple years, at least! Visit http://butterick.mccall.com to purchase these patterns.
Posted by Edelweiss Patterns on August 22, 2011
Week 2 of the 1950s Dress Sew-Along
Hello Ladies! I am excited for us to start sewing our 1950s “walkaway” dresses! Does everyone have their patterns fitting properly according to the instructions I gave last week? If you have any questions about the fit, I am more than happy to answer them, so please don’t hesitate to leave a comment if you need any help before sewing your dress. Butterick 4790 is a bit harder to fit than some patterns simply because it does not have an actual side seam, so if you choose to fit your tissue patterns in the future it will probably be easier for you the next time around.
So let’s start sewing! This week we will sew the darts, skirt seams, and shoulder seams. (You will definitely want to follow your pattern instructions for this dress, as these notes are added as a supplement to the pattern, not necessarily as a substitute.)
Sewing the Darts
Butterick 4790 has a total of eight darts between the front and back pieces. There are two vertical darts in the back which are very simple, and four vertical darts in the front sheath piece in addition to the two regular horizontal bust darts. While darts are not hard to sew, I used to find myself dreading the tiresome process of tediously marking the darts onto the fabric one pin prick at a time! So after years of using traditional methods for transferring dart markings, I finally decided just to slash right through the darts and draw on the lines with a fabric marker!
How to Sew the Darts
1. Cut through the dart markings for your size, stopping right before the point.
2.On the wrong side of your fabric, mark where the dart lines are with your fabric pen. (Test on a swatch of your material first to be sure the marker will erase.)
3. Pin the dart closed, making sure the lines match up exactly.
(For the vertical darts, it doesn’t matter which end you start at, but for the horizontal bust darts you will want to start sewing at the side, finishing at the point.)
4. Using a regular length machine stitch, sew until you get about 1/2″ away from the stopping point. Now shorten your stitch lenth and sew the remaining length of the dart till you reach the fold of the fabric.
5. Once you reach the edge of the material, do not backstitch. Lift your presser foot and needle, and pull the fabric away from the needle for about 1″. Lower your needle into the dart’s seam allowance approximately 1″ behind the apex of the dart. Now stitch for 1/2″ or so using very short machine stitches.
6. There’s no need to backstitch since the tiny stitching will not unravel. Clip the threads and press your dart, then proceed to the next one. (I learned this method for sewing darts from the Palmer/Pletsch School of Sewing, so I can’t take any credit for it. ) : )
The next steps are all going to be so easy!
Sewing the Circle Skirt
1. Take the two half-circle pieces and pin them together at the side seam with the right sides together. (Now it will just look like one half-circle, with one long side pinned and one left free.)
2. Sew this seam and press it well using the Five-Step pressing method I give instructions for here. You may, of course, choose to leave your seam allowances unfinished, but it will only take an extra minute to serge or zigzag the raw edges and will greatly improve the appearance on the inside!
3. Pin the top of the circle skirt to the bottom of the bodice back piece with the right sides together.
4. Stitch this seam, press it well, and finish the raw edges.
Now that your skirt is on, you will want the dress to be hanging on a hanger (the padded type is best) at all times when you are not sewing it. The reason for this is that the bias needs to set on the skirt, and in a few days from now you will notice that the hem is no longer circular! Most professional seamstresses let their skirts hang for at least three days before they hem them to be sure that the bottom edge won’t turn out all warped.
And finally, sew your shoulder seams.
This step is a piece of cake, of course! Pin the front and back pieces together at the shoulder seams, and stitch them closed starting at the neckline edge and going out to the shoulder edges. Press the seams and finish the raw edges.
That’s it for this week! I was able to do the above steps in one hour, so I may finally be able to make that “Three Hour Dress” goal after all! Back in the 50s women were supposedly able to “start the dress at 9:00 am and wear it out at noon”, but if they were good seamstresses they would have let their skirts hang for a few days first.
We still have a ways to go, but you can definitely see how our 1950s dresses are coming together!
Next week we should have no problem finishing the dress binding and hemming, and the following week we’ll post our pictures just in time for National Sewing Month!
As always I am happy to answer questions, so let me know if anything is unclear to you. Keep up the good work – I can’t wait to see what everyone comes up with!
Posted by Edelweiss Patterns on August 15, 2011
Week One of the 1950s Walkaway Dress Sew-Along – How to Fit Butterick Pattern 4790
Hello Ladies! I hope you are all ready to sew some 1950s dresses! Today we will look at how to fit your pattern, and you can cut out your fabrics any time after that. If you do not yet have your material ready, don’t fret as the next step (sewing the darts and shoulder seams) will not come until approximately August 22nd. Make sure you do not cut out your fabrics until you have tried on all the tissue pattern pieces to ensure it will fit properly!
So let’s get started! As I shared earlier, my method for fitting this dress comes in part from the advice of McCalls Patterns Fit Expert, Pati Palmer. If you are interested in learning more about fitting your patterns (which any seamstress ought to be skilled at!) I highly recommend her excellent books on the subject.
If you have never fitted a pattern before, the instructions may look a bit daunting, but don’t be intimidated by the extra steps in fitting! The time you invest now to fit your pattern will help you achieve a fit that never could have happened otherwise for your dress! And trying on your pattern pieces beforehand gives you a “sneak peek” at how the finished dress will look. This is an invaluable skill to know, and is well worth every minute! And as always I am happy to answer questions, so make sure you don’t skip the fitting. : )
To properly fit your pattern, make sure you wear the exact undergarments that you will wear under your 1950s walkaway dress. If you plan to wear a corset or body shaper, be sure you use that as well. Finally, wear a camisole to pin your pattern pieces into (even if you will not be wearing a camisole under the dress.)
1. We will start by cutting out the easiest pieces first. Take your waist measurement over your corset (if you plan to wear one) and cut out the skirt piece accordingly. The skirt will not need to be altered, so you can set that aside until you are ready to cut the fabric.
2. Now take your high bust measurement as shown in the photographs. Bring the measuring tape around your chest until it fit snugly just under your arms. In the back, the tape should fit snugly and come down to where your bra would end in the back. (For your information, this was actually the correct way to take the bust measurement back in the late Victorian and Edwardian era! I’ve included a photograph from the 1905 book Dressmaking, Up to Date by Butterick.)
3. Whatever your high bust measurement is, (34″, for instance), substitute that number for the regular bust measurement and cut out your pattern pieces accordingly. So if your high bust is 34″, you will cut out a size 12 in the dress front and back pieces. You are probably thinking, “But that is two sizes too small – my waist measurement is nowhere near a size 12!” And if you didn’t alter it, you would be right! But since this dress has far too much room in the bodice and is actually quite ill-fitted on most figures, just follow the instructions exactly and it will all work out. (You can see pictures here.)
4. Wearing your proper foundation garments, try on the back pattern piece. (Before putting it on, pin in the dart as marked on the pattern piece.) First of all, match the center back edge of the pattern piece exactly with your spine and pin the pattern to your camisole down this line. At the top of the pattern piece, make sure the shoulder starts 5/8″ beyond where your actual shoulder seam would normally be to allow for the seam allowance.
5. Bring the back piece around to the front until it fits snugly and pin in place. Note that the front of the pattern piece is not supposed to come to the center front yet. Measure the distance from the front edge of the pattern to the center front of your body. (For example, 2 inches.) Add 3/8″ to this number, and keep in mind for how much tissue paper you will add. Now mark a straight line with a pencil down the side of the pattern piece at exactly where your side seam would be.
6. Unpin the pattern piece from your camisole and lay on a flat surface. On the line you marked for the imaginary side seam, cut all the way through and spread the two pieces apart. Now comes the fun part! Take a strip of tissue paper and place underneath these two pieces so they are exactly the same distance apart the whole way. You are just adding the necessary width to your pattern piece, so however much was necessary to bring the front edge to the center front is how much you need to add. Tape in place, and you have just fitted your first pattern piece!
The picture shows the wraparound curve redrawn, which will be done in step 7.
7. So now the back piece fits you in the width, but I recommend redrawing your wraparound curve so it doesn’t hit you so low in the front bodice. This step is very simple to complete, and you can see the photo illustrations for that here.
8. Just as you did with the back piece, pin in the darts (all three of them!) on your front pattern piece. Now put this on over your foundation garments, again leaving 5/8″ at the top for the seam allowance. This time, you will pin the front edge of your pattern piece to the center front of your camisole.
9. Bring the piece around snugly to the back and pin in place. Since it does not come to the center back, measure the distance between the pattern edge and and your center back. Add 3/8″ to this measurement to determine how much tissue paper you will add. Note that this pattern piece is only supposed to come to the center back at the very top of it – it is not supposed to even come close to closing through the hip area and below, so this makes fitting it fairly easy.
10. As you did with the back piece, mark the side seam with a pencil down the side of the pattern. Now take your pattern off, unpin all the darts, and lay on a flat surface. Slash the pattern down the pencil marked line and spread the pieces apart over tissue paper. Measure the distance between them to make sure you add exactly the number you found in step 9, and tape the pattern to the added tissue paper.
You can see that I've cut the darts out, but I don't recommend doing that until you read my dart tutorial next week.
Optional: If you want a little more coverage at the shoulder, you can add a strip of tissue paper to both front and back shoulder edges and redraw the shoulder curve freehand or with a French curve tool.
Congratulations! You have just fitted your pattern! If you like you can pin the front and back together at the shoulder seams and try it on to make sure it fits perfectly after the adjustments you’ve made. (Darts would need to be pinned in place as well.) You don’t want really any “ease” at all in the tissue paper pattern, because the fabric will have much more give to it than the paper does, and Pati Palmer says that a dress will “grow” once you get it out of tissue paper and into fabric. This has always been my experience as well, though if you accidentally made your pattern too big you could still take in some extra fabric in the darts and at the front opening.
Now that your pattern is properly fitted, you can layout the pieces according to the pattern instructions and cut out the material whenever you like. Next week will sew the darts, shoulder seams, and possibly the skirt as well. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask them! I will be away from my computer on August 16th and 17th, but as soon as I can I will answer any questions you may have.
I would like to hear what fabrics everyone has chosen! For this version of Butterick 4790, I am going to sew a two-toned version! The front panel will be a lovely matte satin print with antique looking roses all over it, and the skirt and wraparound piece will be a drapey pink rayon which I found for $2.50 a yard! This dress will definitely be more “evening” than daywear, so I’m sure I’ll have to add some bows and dainty trims to finish it off. What has everyone else planned?